Jess was now on a mission to purchase some fabric for this skirt. She found this orange leopard print from designer Zimmerman at the Fabric Store. Wasn't sure at first but on second reflection thought it was interesting. Jess decided that she would sew this skirt as her first sewing project with a pattern.
Pattern: didn't have one but thought it was such a simple skirt why would you need to buy one. I referred to my favourite book "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" for the formula to make a 1/2 circle skirt. This book is fantastic - has everything you would need in pattern-making - well worth the money.
|Formula for the radius|
Fabric folded in half and placed one side of the pattern on the fold. This skirt will only have a centre back seam, with an exposed zip (Jeans Zipper).
Disregard the waistband placement - wasn't really correct. Too curvy - Jess cut a 10cm wide strip for a 4cm finished waistband.
Jess wanted an exposed zipper, so searched the internet for a tutorial but it was really hard to find the method I wanted - square at the bottom of the zip. Found this website which is an excellent resource for sewing and this is where I found this exposed zipper tutorial.
Since the skirt was to have an exposed zipper, it was better to interline the skirt - to make the fabric and lining as one. I have to admit this is my favourite method of lining - so easy to do. This lining is silk/cotton (70% silk 30% cotton) purchased at Tessuti, and what a great colour.
Sew the centre back seam and stop at the zipper end point and back sew to secure. Then sew 4.0 stitch length the rest of the way (where the zipper is to be positioned) - this will be unpicked later.
Cut a length of fabric for the stay which is to be used for the exposed zipper. You need to measure the finished length and the desired width of zip exposure. This is very important because the width of the opening (the square bit at the bottom of the zip) can't be changed - you are committed to sew the zip in that space. If you download the PDF it will explain it properly. Press and fold in half. The fold line should be placed on the centre back seam, where the zip is to be positioned.
With right sides of fabric facing place the stay on the zipper line - pin ready to sew.
|Sewing the stay over zipper area of skirt|
Jess positioned the edge of the foot on that CB seam as a guide for the width. Of course you need to determine if that is how much of the zipper you want exposed before sewing.
After having sewn the stay, you need to cut down the centre of the stay then cut diagonally into the corners. Unpick the basting stitches. Then turn the stay inside the skirt, as shown below. Press.
Now you can place your zipper inside the opening ready to sew. You can see from the width of the fabric square that this can't be changed, so when you place your zipper underneath it should exceed the width of the opening or else you can't sew it in place.
|Sewing zipper in place|
Now this is what I call an exposed zipper!! Jess hand stitched the waistband and hem. Hooray, mission accomplished - 1/2 circle made by Jess!!
|A bit of a swirl to show off the lining|
Jess is really happy with her skirt and proud to wear it. Needless to say, I'm very proud of her achievement. She is well on the way to sewing for herself.
This is a great first project - excluding the challenge when it came to the zip. Definitely a pattern which will be repeated. Have some black jacquard fabric which is perfect for this pattern. Jess can now learn how to sew an invisible zip. There's no stopping her now!!!